#4924877
I did a quick proof of concept and both audio boards did play different sounds at the same time. So, I guess I just have to keep digging.

***Proof of Concept***
//Both boards play sounds individually.

#include <SoftwareSerial.h>
#include "Adafruit_Soundboard.h"


// soundboard pins and setup
#define SFX_RST 23
#define SFX_RX 10
#define SFX_TX 11
const int ACT = 9; // this allows us to know if the audio is playing

// soundboard pins and setup
#define SFX_RSTGun 25
#define SFX_RXGun 12
#define SFX_TXGun 13
const int ACTGun = 8; // this allows us to know if the audio is playing

SoftwareSerial ss = SoftwareSerial(SFX_TX, SFX_RX);
Adafruit_Soundboard sfx = Adafruit_Soundboard( &ss, NULL, SFX_RST);

SoftwareSerial ssGun = SoftwareSerial(SFX_TXGun, SFX_RXGun);
Adafruit_Soundboard sfxGun = Adafruit_Soundboard( &ssGun, NULL, SFX_RSTGun);



void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
ss.begin(9600);
ssGun.begin(9600);

}

void loop() {
sfx.playTrack(3);
sfxGun.playTrack(1);

}
#4924894
If you go in and remix the audio files, you can make wand sounds only left channel and pack sounds right channel. Then you can use a single board and just use a stereo setup with a little speaker in the wand and a big one in the pack using one sound card.
#4924910
Take the while out waiting for the boards to reset. Maybe one of them is hanging on the reset.
I took the wait out and it did turn on, but the pack acted...oddly. The animations would delay for a couple of seconds when turning on and they would stall for a few seconds randomly, though it didnt seem to effect the sound.
If you go in and remix the audio files, you can make wand sounds only left channel and pack sounds right channel. Then you can use a single board and just use a stereo setup with a little speaker in the wand and a big one in the pack using one sound card.
That...is an interesting idea. Im not sure if thats the direction I want to go as I would prefer them to be able to be activated separately, but it is an intriguing option.
#4926253
Ahhh. my pack is all together I am running your stock code at the moment with the e-cig relay. I just want to let you know that it does work. The smoke runs the entire time the vent lights are on. The only thing I would suggest is to add a debounce to the fire button. If I do not push the button very deliberately it can freeze up the arduino, and I have to toggle the main power to reset it.
I will post a video soon, I haven't managed to get one yet. But I wanted to thank you again for sharing all your work with us. I could have just bought a board, but I had a lot more fun and learned a lot by building this version.
#4926264
Hey Count, just got myself a prusa and was hoping you could guide me to the best full size model proton pack you would recommend for printing. Did you size yours down to 83%, there are a bunch of models on thingiverse but many are older from 2014 and I know there has been many folks like yourself making improvements.

Thanks !
#4926279
Ahhh. my pack is all together I am running your stock code at the moment with the e-cig relay. I just want to let you know that it does work. The smoke runs the entire time the vent lights are on. The only thing I would suggest is to add a debounce to the fire button. If I do not push the button very deliberately it can freeze up the arduino, and I have to toggle the main power to reset it.
I will post a video soon, I haven't managed to get one yet. But I wanted to thank you again for sharing all your work with us. I could have just bought a board, but I had a lot more fun and learned a lot by building this version.
that is strange. I have never had the arduino lock up with button presses and it's almost exclusively used by 8-9 year olds so you can imagine the beating it gets. Might be something with the relay code that was added but I have not actually wired that up myself. Maybe one of the other people who are using the relay could verify if they have that issue as well?
#4926280
Hey Count, just got myself a prusa and was hoping you could guide me to the best full size model proton pack you would recommend for printing. Did you size yours down to 83%, there are a bunch of models on thingiverse but many are older from 2014 and I know there has been many folks like yourself making improvements.

Thanks !
I did size mine down to 83% and also mirrored it as my son is left handed. All of the models I ended up using are on my github site as I didn't think they would be too useful to many people since they are designed for specific hoses and things. Scaling it up would not be a direct 1 to 1 as you would have to then make modifications for the hoses. I have not looked at the models that have been released in the last 2 years on thingiverse. Most of the stuff I used were heavy modifications from DancinFool and TheNewHobbyist packs. MileyORiley's looks pretty good. I think that one came out around the time I was finishing up mine.
#4926329
HI CountDeMonet
The relay code you made works great
The only change i had to make is to the relay pin from LOW to HIGH where needed and add a second power supply
I have not been to well as of late so iv still got bits to finish on my pack
I would have never started this project without such a detailed guide
Thank you
Banjo - i have not had any problems with the buttons could be a short somewhere
if you could post a video or photo i may be able to help
#4926629
First of all...thanks for all the hard work on this project! After finally reading the entire thread I decided to take a leap and mod my Spirit Pack. I'm by no means an electrical engineer but since my other hobby is building and flying drones, I know a enough about basic wiring and soldering. So with that said I just finished replicating the bar graph based on the pics and input from the board and although it "works" I'm getting brighter LEDS in parts of the graph than others. Any idea what this might be? Note: I don't have the sound board hooked up so the illustration video below runs SLOW....I also attached some pics my board to see if anyone happens to notice anything strange. Any feedback would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtVNAa93jBI

Image
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#4926662
someone else had that problem as well and I don't remember what the solution was. the brightness level is determined by the resistors within the network. It could be something is out of spec in the network? Only way to find out would be to test the resistance of each pin to make sure they are all the same. Are the leds that are brighter all on the same network?
#4926676
Thanks for the quick reply! Not sure what you mean by the same network? But it does seem to cross between the two different LED modules as illustrated in the YT video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtVNAa93jBI
I think you have the resistor networks backwards so the lit up leds are actually the ground pins on the 10 and 5 networks. Here is a pic of mine. Writing out on the 10 pin and writing in on the 5 pin. Looks like everything else is wired up the same . That little circle above the last pin right before the writing starts indicates the common ground pin for the network

Image

a good visualization of the network

Image
#4926695
I had the same problem with the resistors
in the end i solder bridged all the negative legs to bypass the resistors
and got the same led brightness across the array and it works fine

I just did the same and it works brilliantly! Saved me from the having to re-solder the entire board and module. Thanks!
#4926752
Hi wondering if you can help?

I've followed everything and have my neopixels/switches all working as they should. When I add the soundboard to the mix my powercell lights slow down to a crawl and no sound comes through. Initially i though this was because of not enough voltage so i upped from the 3.3 to 5v and out came smoke.
Tore it all down and rebuilt on my mega, added a new soundboard which i had tested in stand alone (worked ok) Same problem.
@Glyn2k - Did you ever come up with a fix for this? I'm having the exact same problem with my setup.
#4926772
If things are running slowly that means the arduino is not communicating with the sound board. I always test my boards and the sounds on them using the sketch from this tutorial

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-aud ... io-control

You can load that up on the arduino and just update the pin numbers to match my setup to test. Very handy. Also make sure the UG to Ground is soldered well as that puts the sound board into serial mode.
#4926816
I am using the DFPlayer Mini and the library they provide is extremely inefficient, I cant speak for the adafruit soundboard but for anyone using DFPlayer I would recommend using the DFPlayerMini_Fast library on Github. (This most likely does not apply to the above issue though)

Problems I was having using the default was delays during sound transitions on the idle sound, and sometimes when hitting fire a couple times. It wasnt too bad but it looked very sloppy to me. Also there always was an initial popping sound when powering on which is now gone using the new library.

The reason I choose DFPlayer was the unlimited space of using an SDCard with it. :) I also wanted to get a bit more out of the quality of the sound.
#4926874
Ok....I think my sound problems have been solved. Turns out my breadboard connections weren't as secure as I thought they were......it's still a little quirky but I think once I get em soldered down it should be fine.

Next question: Where is the preferred home for the Arudino Nano board? Are you guys storing it in the wand and running the led signals and sound down to the pack or are you storing it in the pack and running the bargraph/nose and switches up to the wand? Not sure if it matters but I figured I'd ask before making a mess....lol. Thanks!
#4926891
I seem to remember reading somewhere that there were some issues with the sound card when the arduino was in the wand. With the BarGraph, Lights and Switches I'm guessing I need to run 10 wires up through the wand. Just wasn't sure about signal and/or voltage loss with a long run. Anyone ever use two arduinos and tie them together?
#4926892
I was having serial comm issues with the distance. Moving to the pack solved that. I also ran voltage drop tests. All of that is back in this thread somewhere. Probably around page 9. I did see some voltage drop and even thought about running full voltage to the wand and using a buck conveter to bring it down but in the end the drop wasn't that significant. I ended up using 18 gauge speaker wire (I believe) to the wand for the power and then 20 gauge wire for the signals. You will need to also run the 3v and signal wires for the sx1509 since you added that.

If you look at the first few pages we talked about doing two arduinos and linking them. I don't remember why I pulled back from that. Probably was running out of time and needed to get it done :)
#4926920
I powered my stuff up a bit differently, the LED's were causing a bit of a headache on the sound so I used two of the buck converters but powering the Arduino and all the LED's on one, the other powered the DFPlayer and amplifier.

I am using this Amp: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C4N ... UTF8&psc=1
and this speaker: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N74 ... UTF8&psc=1

All with the DFplayer Mini.

Im using 24 gauge wire everywhere except the bargraph from the pack is 28 gauge.
#4926921
Interesting you mention the sound issues....As I'm still wired up on my desktop breadboard setup....I've noticed significant hiccups in sound and light pauses when transitioning to different sounds. For instance when the fire button is held, just before the blinking LED turns red the sound and bar graph will pause for a 1/2 second and then go back to the normal cycle. For my desk setup I just have everything running through a lipo connected to one buck converter. I wonder if that is what is causing my sound and light pauses during the transitions?
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