Talk about the your favorite Ghostbusters Collectibles from Mattel, Kenner, and more.
#4941014
One time wrote: October 16th, 2020, 6:21 am If anyone ever made a piece that fit over the front grip and beefed it up to the level of the screen used prop it would sell so well.
I made this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605815, but to be honest it's not great. To get a true GB1/2 you'd need to dremel off the shotgun grip (which is possible but you need to be super careful not to cut into the wire thats underneath) and I'm not willing to do that to mine in order to get the measurements required to design it.
#4941032
For all those, who want to dig deeper into modding the hasbro-wand - these informations may be helpful.

I've tried to open the triggerbox by removing the two hidden screws, in order to get access to the pushbutton and the switch, but failed to do so...it just wouldn't come open as i had hoped for. :( T hrough further investigation, i found out; there's a third screw within the case, holding the triggerbox in place PLUS it's glued in (i guess to prevent it from eventually getting loose by the rumble-action) AAAand - half of the triggerbox-socket, thats glued into place, is also part of the triggerboxes lower cover - so in CAN NOT be removed, unless the triggerbox has been removed from the wands-case (well - at least if you wouldn't want to break it of course).

Some intense but extra careful scalpel-blade-action is required, in order to get the glued elements apart, even after the third srews has been removed.

I've made a few images to illustrate this matter a bit:
Image

Image
#4941040
Did a repaint of the wand to try and match what was seen in the promo vids.

Originally bought Rustoleum Satin Espresso to get the colour of the barrel from the gunner seat, which does seem a lot darker and brown, but it turned out to be a bit too dark and almost matched the satin black of everything else.

Image

Sanded it back down, then found this colour instead.

Image

When you first spray it does seem almost too orange, unnaturally so to be any sort of wood, but once you give it a once over with brushed black spray paint, a light sand with 3000 grit sandpaper, and wash it in a dark oil paint, it looks the part 100%.

Image

Image
#4941044
The next thing is - that darn rear-grip. In order to go for a better GB1-style, i'd need to get rid of the incomplete grip... A few guys have already cut away the rubber-ish cover, to unveil the incomplete grip beneath (i cannot facepalm enough about this weird design decision, but ...well) There are some more hidden screws to be removed (5 in total, where 2 of them go from the end of the grip, where the endcap gets screwed in. When all five screws have been removed, the most of the incomplet grip can be disassebled. There is a guide for the battery-holder, that comes off as well - it contains the threads for 3 of the screws. When this is removed there's only clean holes left on the rear grips tube AND that very end of the grip, that has the threads for the end-cap. I'd like to get rid of this as well, since i'd like to have a clean rear-tube to put a new and complete grip on - so this needed to go - and it CAN be done without any rotary-tool-mess:

Image

Image

That's a step forward i think - i may need another method to keep the battery-holder in place now of course.
cristovalc liked this
#4941108
My hasbro pre order wand arrived just in time for my birthday Sept. 30, with the discount one I ordered from Game Stop arriving the day before. I was made to wait until after my bday dinner before opening. I opened both and proceeded to cleanse the house with the help of my kids. While these are great. The horrible clippard and hat lights are really annoying, why!!! By the second day I noticed that one of the wand barrels wouldn't stay in the safe position. Oh no, an excuse to tear it open.

Here's the results:http://imgur.com/gallery/zDPs9BC
Image
Image

The trigger box was glued too much to tear open. But every thing else was disassembled. I chopped the fore grip, and replaced it with casting from gbfans shop. The whole front tube was split apart, and then glued togather. With the grip glued in place. And I removed the back grip for similar replacement. Bother grips had thin styrene strips glued to the insides to better match the tube diameter and give a better surface for attaching to the tube.
Other changes include thickening the heat sink by 3mm. Moving the gun track forward by 10mm. Adding a bottom plate between the gun track and the main box. Adding real hex screws throughout. Replacing most light covers and fake hat lights and mode switch.
I've scince painted the wand black with some distress. And just finished reassembly. I'll take more photos tomorrow.
Last edited by Mathew_impact1 on October 21st, 2020, 12:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
#4941132
One time wrote: October 5th, 2020, 10:12 am
LordOfTheSebouillia wrote: October 1st, 2020, 11:07 am Hi everyone, new user here, though I'm happy to see my old handle from the GBnet revamped boards from 2001 was still available here...

Has anyone found any fixes to the "rainbow" issue on the LED stick?
No solution but I know exactly what you mean. I went through 3 of these wands before I got one that functioned right. One had the rainbow lights error in the barrel. Stuck colors, etc. After a day the barrel lights failed entirely and stayed off.

The motor on one was considerably stronger than on the other 2. Also the power adjust dial felt like it was going to fall of on one. I think quality control on these wasn't the best.
I just got my replacement from Gamestop after getting a refund from Hasbro. Works fine, hope I can say the same in a few days... Happy to hear my instagram comment on the ID Crossrip page with return process and expectations was mentioned on the podcast.

Get that stuff sent back if you're in the same place! Use the chat support rather than email for a quicker response and if they accept a return, you have four weeks to return it!

Also worth noting if you buy thru Gamestop they do provide a return label so no need to talk to a human or access a printer.
#4941141
I had a chance to take some photos during lunch. The wand is about 90% done.
ImageBefore and after top view. New grips and Clippard. New paint. Replaced small details.
ImageRight side compare. Replaced fake hose barbs. Built new block behind front grip.
ImageLeft side compare. Moved the disks closer to each other. New scratch made banjos.
ImageBottom compare. Moved gunrack forward 10mm. Replaced fake screws. Thickened up the heatsink ~3mm.
ImageLight set up with opened vent slots. The front hat light is slaved to small white light next to vent. The rear hat light has a blinking red LED that is slaved to the top LED in the bar graph. I don't own any real hat lights. These were made using my drill as a lathe.
ImageTop detail, removed the diffusor inside the vent slots. Still needs a knob on Clippard.
ImageFront grip in normal position. The gunrack is moved forward 10mm.
ImageFront grip rotated 90 degree. Bottom plate is added with real hex bolts. The black cable is a the outer sheath from a power cord.
ImageFront detail. Replica banjos. Correct bottom switch, new hat light(need to dye orange). Straight pull back hook.
ImageWires for sound and power. The wand still works with internal battery pack, but is can be powered from an external pack instead.

In retrospect, I wish I had replaced the clear hat light as well. And I thought about reducing the width of the vent openings(small dimension), they seem about 1mm to wide. I reshaped the block behind the front grip. I should have taken the opportunity to reduce it's front to back dimension about 3mm. On the real prop, is the bar graph supposed to be printed lines are a lenticular lens? I kept the printed symbols/lettering in place by masking off, I'll add the stickers after I clear coat the finish.
Last edited by Mathew_impact1 on October 21st, 2020, 12:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
groschopf, infinacy, cristovalc and 1 others liked this
#4941151
It is possible to to swap out both grips without completely tearing the wand down, it will be much easier/safer if at least party disassemble the wand. Remove the front tune from the rest of the wand. My mod worked for the grips from the GBfans shop, but printed grips should be fine, as long as the are sized for tubes that are 1-1/8" or 29mm or so.
https://imgur.com/gallery/MBXbGVf
ImageDo a rough cut along blue line to remove most of the "wood" stock. Pull the wire out of the way and then cut to the black line. At this point run a thin bead of CA glue along the tube seem and let dry. File/sand the paint off remaining wood. With a bit more trimming you should be able to fit a traditional grip in place. I drilled a 1/4" hole for wires the length of my grip before gluing in place. I also had to shorten the grip to fit.
https://imgur.com/gallery/cacd5jt
ImageI tore the front barrel apart. In addition to 4 screws, it's glued at th front and back. Wire is held in with cell tape.
ImageWith a cutting wheel, cut along marked black line. Drill out plug and unscrew . Use small flat screwdriver or blade to release the corners. But you will need to glue the side walls as the screw no longer hold the wing together. If careful you can reuse the cut out panel. Image
ImageShows how the banjo is attached. Not a screw. A toothed nail.

I plan to swap the mode switch and install a working hat light on my second wand this weekend. I'll try and take pictures, including where I wired the LED to.
#4941203
Theoderic wrote: October 16th, 2020, 4:29 pm For all those, who want to dig deeper into modding the hasbro-wand - these informations may be helpful.

I've tried to open the triggerbox by removing the two hidden screws, in order to get access to the pushbutton and the switch, but failed to do so...it just wouldn't come open as i had hoped for. :( T hrough further investigation, i found out; there's a third screw within the case, holding the triggerbox in place PLUS it's glued in (i guess to prevent it from eventually getting loose by the rumble-action) AAAand - half of the triggerbox-socket, thats glued into place, is also part of the triggerboxes lower cover - so in CAN NOT be removed, unless the triggerbox has been removed from the wands-case (well - at least if you wouldn't want to break it of course).

Some intense but extra careful scalpel-blade-action is required, in order to get the glued elements apart, even after the third srews has been removed.

I've made a few images to illustrate this matter a bit:

Looks to be a bit of a pain in the ass to get into to say the least. I'm currently trying to replace the hilariously tiny "hat lights" with diffused led's, hoping to give it a sort of RGB nod in that respect as the lights in that show were the domed variety for the most part. Despite how it looks it's an Amber led, i know the movie was white but the included tiny led flashed amber so guessing that's presumably how it is in the new movie.

Image

Done this one last night and it seems ok, just removed the led and the little pcb it was on, cut the "hat" part off the fake hat light that sat there and glued this onto the mount that remained and ran the 2 wires to it. I solder like Mr Magoo in a black out so took a bit longer than i thought. :oops:
#4941257
Image

Modding complete!! Calling it now... Can't spend any more brain power on this. Was really hard taking it from pristine and new and then just drop-kicking it into a gutter.

Once I build a proper aluminium thrower this will serve as a nice display piece.
One time liked this
#4941258
Great job with the paint and weathering on this! How did you manage those tiny micro scratches? Wasn't as to chip away that small on mine.
Last edited by Kingpin on October 22nd, 2020, 1:53 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Removed unnecessarily quoted post content.
#4941259
For paint, after masking off areas I painted the whole wand with silver lacquer rattle can. I did 3 coats and waited two days. Then I treated any areas that I wanted to later effect with smeared layer if foundation makeup from the dollar store. Then for chipped paint I dabbled on toothpaste with a brush and qtip. While toothpaste is still wet , spay paint a layer of flat black. Emidiatly followed by satin black, then a thin layer of flat black. While paint still tacky, scuff with scotchbrite and sanding block. Then scuff all surfaces with rough cloth. You have about ten minutes before the black paint starts to harden. The smeared foundation allows the black paint scratch and rub off easily.

A sample of just using the toothpaste dabs. Image
Last edited by Kingpin on October 22nd, 2020, 1:55 am, edited 1 time in total.Reason: Fixed image link
ccv66, cristovalc liked this
#4941276
So now that we know the front barrel can easily be removed and the internal extension part and LED tip comes out of that, has anyone considered 3D printing an entirely new barrel? this may help so that we can easily change out the grip and/or proper hat light and momentary button on the ear.

I've been keeping a close eye on all these mods trying to gather enough info, before I crack mine open. If and when I do, I may then myself try to design and print new barrel.

Just a thought...
#4941290
I think I've worn out the pop mech on my Spengler wand. I noticed last night that the barrel would extend on its own if I grabbed the front grip with more than a little pressure, and after i installed some new side knobs in it today, I noticed that it won't lock after I push it back into its retracted state.

I'll get over it if I can't fix it, I'm just a little bummed that I might've screwed something up in the process of upgrading it..
#4941295
Mathew_impact1 wrote: October 21st, 2020, 9:43 pm Just to clarify. Why did you replace the clear hat light with a jumbo LED?
Has a bit of a real ghostbusters look to it, the actual hat light was a tiny led and just didn't do much in terms of lighting. The led is 10mm so it's really only fractionally bigger than the faux hat light in terms of width, its a bit taller for sure.

Just trying to give it a bit of unique look instead of trying to copy images of the prop. Also looking at changing the top light on the gun box and adding one to replace the plastic fake light.
#4941418
greenskeeper87 wrote: October 25th, 2020, 5:58 pm New to the forum! Matthew_impact1 do you have a writeup on how you were able to get the sound/power wires out the back end of the wand? I'm really hoping to link my Spengler Nutrona Wand to my Ghostlab42 soundblaster! Thanks!
Welcome :)

Somebody named Ronatmacksfactory made a youtube video to show what needs to be done (which is exactly what i did and thus i can comfirm, this does work indeed very well)

Linkt to the video
https://youtu.be/h98Wd1syQY4

link to the instructions on instructables
https://www.instructables.com/Installin ... r-Plasma-/

This should help i guess, so - good luck with your mod :)
#4941451
Given the size it shouldn't be too hard to find one, but I don't think the toy is worth putting in a display case at roughly the same price point, not in its vanilla state anyway...

Going to display mine up once I build the replacement thrower for sure though. (Warning: dusty as shelf)

Image
mrmichaelt liked this
#4941502
Mercifull wrote: October 16th, 2020, 9:23 am
One time wrote: October 16th, 2020, 6:21 am If anyone ever made a piece that fit over the front grip and beefed it up to the level of the screen used prop it would sell so well.
I made this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605815, but to be honest it's not great. To get a true GB1/2 you'd need to dremel off the shotgun grip (which is possible but you need to be super careful not to cut into the wire thats underneath) and I'm not willing to do that to mine in order to get the measurements required to design it.
I meant the shotgun wooden grip. Not the 84 finger grip. The "wooden" grip on the Hasbro is no where near as wide and beefy as the screen used prop.
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