#4901066
The 2mb would work if you get rid of all of the dialog, firing with alert, venting, and the song. I have a short versions of the idle and firing sound. Those would just fit on the 2mb. I tried ogg for some of the looping sounds and there was a really noticeable hiccup when the loop would restart that really bothered me. You could try encoding them to ogg and see if it's ok with you before trying anything else.

If you can still return it I would recommend doing that and go with the 16mb and then you have more options with what you can do. Otherwise we can work with the 2mb you'll just have some limited functions.

Always happy to help :) It's fun for me and I'm always learning too.
#4903005
That's super sweet. I just had a baby, so that's taking up pretty much all of my time. I hope that in the near future I can pull my project out and work on it again. I would love to make a pack (well, making 4 for friends and myself), and then one "prototype" pack where I can take the design to the next level
#4906031
No, you do not have to have the sound board hooked up to test the lights. Here is an example sketch I did for my spirit pack that is just the lights

https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... itMinimial

As far as the full sketch goes commenting out the board check in the setup function should let everything else continue on. That code to comment out is below
Code: Select all if (!sfx.reset()) { while (1); }
The 2 position switches I used are these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HGAKDIQ

and the button which is normally open

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU898QA
#4907369
So this is what I was able to come up with. The top part can slide over the top coupler for the conduit and has a set screw to keep it in place. This allows me to adjust where the foam hits on the back. I've got the whole thing sanded down and repainted. Now I just have to wait for the paint to cure before I can put it all together. I think this should work pretty well.

Image

Any chance this was uploaded? the or have a link for the brackets for the PVC. Awesome work and thanks!

-LR
#4907480
I just went downstairs and took a close look. It turns out I did 3d print that part but I can't find the file for it anywhere. My pc died over the winter and I had to buy a new one so that must have been one of the files I didn't back up. It wasn't a complex part.

EDIT: I thought they were lost but I did not name it something I could find. I just found the top part as well as a plug I made to make the ends of the pvc look nicer

https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... ce_top.stl
https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... c_plug.stl
#4907597
I've added some eagle board files to the github repo. These can be used to order from OshPark. I'm never hand soldering these boards again lol. There are 2 board files up there right now. One for the powercell, cyclotron, and vent lights in the pack. The other is the io board I'll be using in the wand for the switches, button, nose neopixel, and wand lights. Again I have not ordered these but will likely do so when I build my next pack.

The connectors I'm using are here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734PS688

I have decided that I'll be putting the nano in the pack and not the wand. The latest test looks to be the most stable setup.

https://github.com/CountDeMonet/Arduino ... ster/EAGLE

Image

Image
Hey Count,

Is there schematic on how these are tied into the circuit setup, I was looking over the diagram.... I ordered these boards and have them ready to just don't want to get any happy white smoke as I start hooking everything up. Thanks!
#4907608
The main diagram is what you will want to look at. These boards make wiring up the different parts easier. The main goal with both of these boards is to have each component connected via a connector so you can easily service a part. You can bypass the connector if you want and just solder each component directly to the board. It will still make wire management tons easier.

Image

The first board handles the connections to the neopixel sticks, each cyclotron light, and the vent lights to make wiring easier. I had to manually create these boards because I didn't have time to get them fabricated.

Image

The second board does the same thing to make the wiring in the wand easier to handle and make serviceable.

Image

Image

The wiring is exactly as in the main schematic above. If you have some specific questions that might be easier for me to answer. Hopefully some of this helped.
Last edited by CountDeMonet on August 14th, 2018, 12:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#4907613
I lost the diagram software a long time ago but I threw this together to show how it is wired to the components. This will hopefully demonstrate what I was trying to say.

Image

The wand side is similar.

Image

The wand board has a nose connector that goes to a single neopixel jewel, the wand connector which goes to the 4 neopixels in the wand as a chain, the three switches, and the fire button. All of the connections to the arduino/power are on the one side to make it easier to send to the pack.
#4907794
The main diagram is what you will want to look at. These boards make wiring up the different parts easier. The main goal with both of these boards is to have each component connected via a connector so you can easily service a part. You can bypass the connector if you want and just solder each component directly to the board. It will still make wire management tons easier.

Image

The first board handles the connections to the neopixel sticks, each cyclotron light, and the vent lights to make wiring easier. I had to manually create these boards because I didn't have time to get them fabricated.

Image

The second board does the same thing to make the wiring in the wand easier to handle and make serviceable.

Image

Image

The wiring is exactly as in the main schematic above. If you have some specific questions that might be easier for me to answer. Hopefully some of this helped.
Can you explain the P1,P2,S1,S2,S3,B for the wand board.... getting everything closer but getting lost here... I know it goes to x pin on the arduino but just want to be sure :D Thanks!
#4907797
Image

5v should be a regulated 5v power source. This can come off the arduino but I don't recommend it. In my setup I run 5v directly from the buck converter to the wand board. This will be your most stable voltage. Ground comes from the buck converter as well.

P1 is for the nose neopixel ring and goes to pin 3 on the arduino
P2 is for the wand lights and goes to pin 4
S1 is the switch for playing the theme music and goes to pin 5
S2 is the power on switch and goes to pin 6
S3 is the activate switch and goes to pin 7
B is the fire button and goes to pin 8
#4907814
Do you have a pin out sheet for, trying to zoom in on the image and trying to decode where I am doing something wrong... when throwing the power switch it does not seem to go.... I can manually trigger the sounds off the sound board so I know the sound board has power and sound output, just thinking I have something goofed up.. Thanks again !!
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