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By pyhasanon
#4832025
Since the bracket was originally attached with rivets in the movie, you can imitate the look if you use button head cap screws... ;)
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By Parflagush
#4832027
I really like the way that bracket looks on there. This is one part I opted not to bother with, but seeing your photos makes me wanna rethink adding that on.
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By bishopdonmiguel
#4832050
Fantastique!
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By GohstTarp
#4832624
I was looking to attach the two Legris straights by drilling and tapping the shell (along with a nut on the back), but I wasn't sure how I can create the threads so that the straights tighten like Bish's example here...
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I'm guessing I would need to do some trial and error on scrap to figure out what angle to start the tapping so that the straights are at the desired orientation when tightened, but thought I would ask in case there is a trick to it. Or maybe I should just drill to size for the straights and just use the nuts I have to secure.

Anyone have some sage advice?
Last edited by GohstTarp on April 16th, 2018, 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By Grimmy GB
#4832627
I used cap nuts, nylon washers, and steel washers for spacers. I didn't tap the holes but drilled them close to the size and the straights and mini filed the rest of the way. They're tight.
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... &start=270
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By bishopdonmiguel
#4832632
Something to think about here. While I lined those up nice and neat during the dry fit, in the end I opted for a random position. Felt the slight asymmetry better matched the overall vibe of the pack design.
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By GohstTarp
#4832870
Grimmy, CPU64 and Bish - Thank you all so much for the suggestions. Very helpful!

I really wanted to have the shell tapped for these straights, but unfortunately, I was not careful enough and they ended up screwing in too crooked for my tastes. No worries, though, as I just drilled out the holes a little bit with the step bit and extender and used some 1/8 NTP nuts to secure. Now the straights are straight enough and very secure...


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Last edited by GohstTarp on April 16th, 2018, 8:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By PssdffJay
#4832879
Great progress! I couldn't find NPT nuts here. I had to jimmy rig it.

Jumping back to the injector bracket, at Julz's recomendation, he told me to curve the top.
I would trace more of a circle around the top and cut/file/sand away the excess :roland:

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Which I did.

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And I feel it looks a lot better! Mine looked like crap there until I sanded it all nice and smooth before painting. Its a little detail and is hidden by the ribbon cable, but I'm glad I did arch the top. Just an idea.

I also attached my bracket with wide flange rivets to the shell. Somewhere in the reference section is a photo where the shell is coming away from the mobo and you can see them from the inside. I can't find it now, but I think its probably in the Sony pictures. I did this at final assembly. (Maybe it was another thing I stole from Julz... that was quite some time ago and i can't even remember what I did yesterday...)
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By PssdffJay
#4832881
Ha! Found it!

http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtop ... =2&t=32468
Two of the hero packs had the bracket:
Image Image

The bracket appears to be approximately 1" wide and attached with the same large flange rivets used to attach the mounting brackets to the motherboard. IIRC, the GB1 motherboard mounting brackets were 1" wide; it doesn't seem outside the realm of possibility that the injector L-bracket is, in fact, identical to the mounting brackets, but I've seen no conclusive evidence.
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By CPU64
Supporting Member
#4832990
If you have the tap, you can make the nuts out of plastic or aluminum plates. Just remember to only tap as.far.as.the nut will reach on the fitting.
User avatar
By GohstTarp
#4833024
Great progress!
Thanks, Jay! Small bites here and there :)
Jumping back to the injector bracket, at Julz's recomendation, he told me to curve the top.
I will seriously consider this. Not much effort for some increased accuracy.
I also attached my bracket with wide flange rivets to the shell.
That I was aware of, but I appreciate you bringing it up. Even though it won't really be seen, I like the look of the cap head bolts and their removability, but the silver (non-head end) rivet would look good against the black bracket and shell. So many options ;)
User avatar
By GohstTarp
#4833027
Where did you find those npt nuts, GT?
I found them on Amazon, but they were much cheaper I brought them. Unfortunately, I can't recommend them at the current price, but here is the link...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3C ... UTF8&psc=1
Cheers, dude! Your pack is looking amazing!
Thanks for the support, Grimmy!
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By GohstTarp
#4833488
I finally got around to mounting the Beam Line and Filler Plug. Like most of the aluminum parts I'm using, these were made by CPU64 and came pre-drilled and tapped. After drilling the shell with the trusty ol' step bit, I had them attached...

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Close Up

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Wide

Also, I forgot to mention in my prior posts that my Injector Tube was also made by CPU64... another nice part!
Last edited by GohstTarp on April 16th, 2018, 8:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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By GohstTarp
#4836071
Looks like I'm back after an extended leave. Did some large house projects including getting the crawlspace insulated, air ducts sealed and insulated and a new heating and cooling system installed. The new thermostat supports using your own screensaver image, so I didn't waste time customizing...

Image
Last edited by GohstTarp on April 16th, 2018, 8:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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By bishopdonmiguel
#4836076
Brilliant!
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By GohstTarp
#4836077
Now for my update...

This time I decided to install my beautiful aluminum Booster Tube. This one was made by Ejgunth87 and you can find the sale thread here. He cuts the length and angle per order, so you can get a really nice fit.

I got started by looking at reference picks and other builds to mark a point on the top of EDA to act as the center line of the Booster Tube. I then drew a straight line down the angled side of the EDA using a 6" combination square (you could probably use a larger square, but the 6" was the perfect size to work with)...
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Next, I used a 12" combination square to draw a line up the bottom side of the EDA...
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After connecting the two lines, I marked my drill points for the mounting holes (I just picked points that looked good to me)...
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Then, I placed the Booster Tube centered (I pretty much eyeballed this) on the line and marked the "bottom" of the tube where it met the line on the shell...
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That was followed by marking the "top" of the tube the same way (ignore my ugly use of JB Weld Steel Stik to reinforce the Booster Plug)...
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The next step was to mark the top center line ( used to line up with the Booster Frame a little later) and the bottom center line (used to line up the mounting holes) using a 90 degree angled aluminum bar like this...
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Once I had the lines drawn, I put down the Booster Tube and drilled the 1/4' mounting holes in the shell using a step bit...
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Next, I needed to mark the mount points on the Booster Tube through the shell. I've seen other builders use tape to hold the tube in place, but I just placed the shell hanging over the edge of my workbench with a counter weight placed on the cyclotron area. Then I could hold the tube in place securely with one hand, and use a Sharpie in the other hand to mark the location through the backside of the shell. While I was at it, I also double checked that things looked square...
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After marking the drill points on the Booster Tube, I used my drill press with a centering v-block to drill and tap the holes for a 1/4-20 bolt...
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Success...
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I was happy to find that it was firmly and securely attached. Now I need to install the Booster Frame. It's seems the best way to place it would be to set the PPD in place and just adjust it and the Booster Frame until it looks like the reference photos/I'm happy with the look.

Thanks for readin'
Last edited by GohstTarp on April 16th, 2018, 8:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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