[NGLetho]

Good morning everyone!

So I'm finally getting ready to start my first build with a proton pack kit I bought a while back off ebay. I decided I want to start first mounting the alice frame to the mobo (unless that's a bad ide to start first). After a trip to the hardware for the spacers,bolts and etc I began to dive into the specs of where to properly place the current Mark's for the holes and so forth.

Before I began drilling and looking over the hardware I couldn't figure out why or how I was going to fit the two carrier bolts on the bottom bar because of the square head. The bottom bar was completely solid. So after doing more research I discovered an actual lc1 frame have oval openings on the bottom. Then it made sense how the carrier bolts square head would sit snug and flush in the openings.

So my question to anyone is beside it being screen accurate, is it highly recommended to go after one of these authentic frames? I dont know if the quality would be better versus the one I currently have. The tag was removed long ago and all I remember it was "fox something brand". The frame itself I believe is smaller than the traditional one used as well.

I dont mind drilling the holes and while I'm trying to get close to screen accuracy as possible. The frame is not a make or break for me.

Thank you

[Kingpin]

If you can get your hands on a genuine A.L.I.C.E. Pack frame, then I think it's worth the effort. In addition to the solid lower bar, and any potentially differing dimensions between the knock-offs and the real article, there've been a handful of folks who've had the after-market copies break on them after they've drilled through the vertical bar (now, that's not to say this can't happen with the real LC-1 and LC-2 frames, but it seems less common).

[NGLetho]

I appreciate the feedback and insight Kingpin. I can not say I'm not bummed out about it now but I would rather have a higher success chance of properly mounting, than risk drilling into the mobo with a knock off. Time to take a step back and see what else to start with first.

[NotSabbat]

If you can get your hands on a genuine A.L.I.C.E. Pack frame, then I think it's worth the effort. In addition to the solid lower bar, and any potentially differing dimensions between the knock-offs and the real article, there've been a handful of folks who've had the after-market copies break on them after they've drilled through the vertical bar (now, that's not to say this can't happen with the real LC-1 and LC-2 frames, but it seems less common).

I've built or helped people build 5 packs, one with a Rothco reproduction frame, the others will real LC1 and LC2 frames. The Rothco broke very quickly. I would never recommend anyone buy a repo frame or strap (if they can help it). There really isn't any reason not to use a real frame. I can pretty reliably find a vintage LC1 or LC2 frame on ebay in the sub $20 range. Real vintage straps and pads can be harder, but I would also recommend them if you can, they tend to have noticeably better padding.

Just my opinion.

[NGLetho]

If you can get your hands on a genuine A.L.I.C.E. Pack frame, then I think it's worth the effort. In addition to the solid lower bar, and any potentially differing dimensions between the knock-offs and the real article, there've been a handful of folks who've had the after-market copies break on them after they've drilled through the vertical bar (now, that's not to say this can't happen with the real LC-1 and LC-2 frames, but it seems less common).

I've built or helped people build 5 packs, one with a Rothco reproduction frame, the others will real LC1 and LC2 frames. The Rothco broke very quickly. I would never recommend anyone buy a repo frame or strap (if they can help it). There really isn't any reason not to use a real frame. I can pretty reliably find a vintage LC1 or LC2 frame on ebay in the sub $20 range. Real vintage straps and pads can be harder, but I would also recommend them if you can, they tend to have noticeably better padding.

Just my opinion.

Sounds good. I'll start scouting on Ebay to see what I can find. I would rather have a strong foundation to mount onto than risk with a reproduction and it not hold up.

I am extra glad I asked because I was getting ready to commit.
Thank you

[NGLetho]

If you can get your hands on a genuine A.L.I.C.E. Pack frame, then I think it's worth the effort. In addition to the solid lower bar, and any potentially differing dimensions between the knock-offs and the real article, there've been a handful of folks who've had the after-market copies break on them after they've drilled through the vertical bar (now, that's not to say this can't happen with the real LC-1 and LC-2 frames, but it seems less common).

I've built or helped people build 5 packs, one with a Rothco reproduction frame, the others will real LC1 and LC2 frames. The Rothco broke very quickly. I would never recommend anyone buy a repo frame or strap (if they can help it). There really isn't any reason not to use a real frame. I can pretty reliably find a vintage LC1 or LC2 frame on ebay in the sub $20 range. Real vintage straps and pads can be harder, but I would also recommend them if you can, they tend to have noticeably better padding.

Just my opinion.

If it's not to much trouble can you link a few of those Ebay findings? I've been looking and am seeing $20 to $60 range for the frames. The descriptions are kind of throwing me off.

Thank you

[Kingpin]

I'm inclined to say "forget the descriptions, it's the photos you want to look at" - and if they're non-professional photos, then that's even better, as too many people use stock images and often not of the right items.

The LC-1 frames were black, with a thinner waist strap (which used the same connector as the shoulder straps).
The LC-2 frames were olive, with a thicker waist strap with a quick-release buckle made to match the strap's colour.

[NGLetho]

I'm inclined to say "forget the descriptions, it's the photos you want to look at" - and if they're non-professional photos, then that's even better, as too many people use stock images and often not of the right items.

The LC-1 frames were black, with a thinner waist strap (which used the same connector as the shoulder straps).
The LC-2 frames were olive, with a thicker waist strap with a quick-release buckle made to match the strap's colour.

Thank you Kingpin for the breakdown. I appreciate it.

[NGLetho]

So I checked out my local military surplus store and I believe I scored an original alice frame lc2. Its olive green as you described kingpin. Once I figure out how to upload the picture I can

[Kingpin]

An image host like Imgur is one of the best ways to upload photos.