#4834576
I matched mine to the cyclotron, not the powercell... it's a preference, really... most people have it running a lot slower than in the movies...
lapena77 liked this
#4834663
Got the soundboard, power jack, and split loom installed, and closed her up. I changed the cyclotron speed to closer match the speed in the movie, but now the power cell light is going so fast I'm worried someone will have a seizure or something while looking at it LOL. I'll have to sit on it for a while and think about it!.

#4834866
Nice weathering, especially the grips... while I love mine, I can't help but think I overdid it... LOL
#4834882
Thank you chris! The reason it looks so good is because of all the hard work you put into making that shell!!


Phil,

The inside is pretty simple and boring, Just 1 speaker, lights, and gbfans soundboard. I like my battery on the outside, so there's a power jack on the motherboard and the battery velcro's to the bottom corner of the Alice frame.


For the inside of the thrower I just glued the LED's into their hat light sockets and such.
There's a piece of styrene plastic just laying underneath the pop mechanism because I'm afraid that it's going to get caught on the wires or the bargraph ribbon cable. It just pushes everything down and out of the way. The circuit board is just chilling snug in there. I attached some velcro to the back to prevent any shorting against the metal body but it's not actually velcro'd to the side. Just wedged in there.

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alphabeta001 liked this
#4834884
Hmmm... Good idea with the styrene... I may see if I can implement something similar in mine, my cables aren't too much of a problem, but it's not a bad idea...

Wait, are you using RJ's new pop mech? Did you replace the rubber band with a spring? How is that working for you?
#4834927
Thanks guys for all the nice comments!

One great part about Chris Bosh's shells is that the outside layer is cast in a light grey resin type material.
When you scratch the paint off it matches that "primer" color you see on the real packs.

For example on the EDA discs, and the power cell corners:

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Just a neat feature, I went light on the paint chipping as I'm sure It will naturally wear over time as well.
alphabeta001 liked this
#4834988
I'm trying to figure out how to make my shell look like rusted iron... the shell doesn't strike me as something that has an underlying silver/aluminum color, but more like cast iron... not sure how to do that... acrylic paints?

Doesn't mean I don't think your technique looks phenomenal, though, I really like how subtle you went with yours, it really bleeds a cool personality that you can call your own...
#4834993
You could use paint. Depends if you to make your pack's weathering accurate to the props, or more of a theoretical metal weathering (Asssuming the shells were "metal" in the Ghostbusters universe). Personally for me, I want to make it accurate to the movie props, so I wouldn't use any metallic weathering on the shell.

I used acrylic metallic paint on my other pack but only on the resin parts that were metal on the hero pack, not on the shell. Came out cool.
abaka liked this
#4834998
When it comes weathering, to each his own. I'm more of the less is more preference and I love the work you did on your pack. I think a problem with using reference pics for weathering is that GB1 packs were generally very clean in appearance and only sustained wear during handling through the filming and storage of the packs afterward. They were intentionally aged for GB2 and then sustained more damage over the course of a couple of decades of display and storage. It is not an easy task to decide what was there during filming and what occurred afterward. Again, it comes to a personal preference of what each owner likes visually and if they are trying to emulate a specific reference pic.

In the same line, I'm debating painting pixilated weathering for my TVG pack just because I think it would be beat looking and a challenge to do.
#4835000
pyhasanon wrote:I'm trying to figure out how to make my shell look like rusted iron... the shell doesn't strike me as something that has an underlying silver/aluminum color, but more like cast iron... not sure how to do that... acrylic paints?

Doesn't mean I don't think your technique looks phenomenal, though, I really like how subtle you went with yours, it really bleeds a cool personality that you can call your own...
Ideally, it should be lead and stainless. Knowing Venkman, they used carbon steel.
#4835001
Lowberg wrote:Let's not forget this work of art LOL

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Ugh... that's what I'm afraid of ending up if I proceed further... I think I'll leave it alone... LOL

Also, I read in some tutorials online (vintage gun weathering) that a Mr Clean Magic Eraser works great for weathering corners of painted aluminum... I tried it on my thrower, and it works fairly well!
User avatar
By Kingpin
#4854054
Lowberg wrote:Let's not forget this work of art LOL

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In that Pack's defence, that wasn't the degree of weathering it was originally given. As memory serves, it was sold to the person who applied that ridiculous amount of weathering, and then either they, or someone after them tried to sell it through Profiles in History as a screen-used Pack.

Eventually it made it's way back to Sean Bishop, who made it all shiny and new again. :)
#4903346
Lowberg wrote:Officially started on the build!
Got the mounting brackets installed. First time using the thicker ones.
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Everything lines up well with minimal wiggle room.
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How many inches from the bottom of motherboard to the mounting for the bolt and what size do I drill the hole
User avatar
By Stantz 718
#4915385
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I know I am late to the party , I am I the middle of my build which you already helped me out with the list of screws needed for a pack build. I need to know, what size drill bits were used to make the Cyclotron Ring "Dimples"?

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