#4831299
I fixed the welds on the TB/IB with apoxie sculpt. Used a small rigged paper clip for the indentions, and used my finger to pat down the risen spots. I was looking at these pics and decided to alter it a bit. I apologize for this, but you get these pictures as I'm too lazy to post new ones LOL!

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After looking at the pics, I changed the direction of the lower part to better follow the original weld.

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Another shot.

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2 spots on the backside.

It should look better after it's painted; a little less "sharp".
#4831300
Cool welds!
Grimmy GB liked this
#4831608
If any of you have been keeping up with me on Facebook, you know that I'm nearing completion of the thrower. I'll be posting pics soon, although, I do apologize for not doing so sooner. I have a con to attend this weekend and I'm dedicating all my time to having this pack at least wearable.
#4831944
Updates for those who are curious...;)

Let's start with the front ear.

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I seriously have to thank gbchef for sending me some 1" booting shrink. Luke, you the man!
I pre-cut the holes for the cap screw (entry and exit to the grip) smaller than they needed to be (reasoning is because booting holes usually open up a little upon contact with heat). I then pre-cut the holes for the hat and the button, again, smaller than they needed to be. Also, I left about 1/4" or so of material on each side of the overall booting so that when it shrank, it covered the exact locations that were intended. When hitting it with a heat gun, I was at about 400°F and started at the top towards the barrel and in sweeping motions basically going in a helical pattern to the outside, shrank the booting slowly. The holes lined up just about right. I just needed to trim the button a little.
I want to point out (as hijacker [Bart] did) that the button nut on the outside of the shrink is not necessarily accurate to the Hero/Super Hero throwers. I think I referenced a semi-hero screen shot that looks like the nut is on the outside, therefore, went for it. Personally, I think it looks much more clean this way as well.

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Booting from the bottom.

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Carved a canal in the grips and ran the 3 ear wires into a hole into the thrower. You can see it's been covered by booting. To run the wires into the thrower, the female housing needs to be removed by which Spongeface has described a few times in his various documentation.
I will have to cut the booting off later on and open up the canal on the grips to run the wires for the flash bulb. I wasn't going to do it, but have definitely changed my mind now!

I will put up quite a bit more once I get back from Costco.
alphabeta001 liked this
#4831952
A little bit on the rear grip...

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Used flat head hex screws to secure the rear grip to the tube. I gave them an aluminum epoxy painting. They resemble rivets so I'm pretty happy with the outcome. One thing, if you look closely, you might see something under the screws that's not resin. It's washers; I had to use 2 of them per hole as I drilled too deep. These sharp bits just want to take off lol.

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The screws coming through will help secure the loom. If I can get multi-uses out of an item, I aim for it.
#4831958
I was racking my brain on what to do with the inset hat near the vent light and all of those components. The answer was right in front of me on one of the reference builds. So I gained inspiration from Julz. Without further adieu, here's my solution:

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This is aluminum. Holes lined up nicely. Tapped the rolling ridge holes that the "1, 2, 3" knob screw comes through into; which was completely unnecessary and you'll see why below. The black thing behind the hat cap is a cheap pen cap. It tappers, so I planted it into the the bracket small end down, bigger end upwards. This seats around the clear cliplite and keeps the LED lights from bleeding.
NOTE: I now have a washer in between the hat light holder and the top of the bracket. The nut for the holder was loose so I needed to put something there. I also used a tiny dab of hot glue on the screw portion of the hat light once I found the proper mounting height. If this ever needs adjusting, just remove the hot glue, screw in or out and apply more hot glue.

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This picture emphasizes on the hat light holder and the pen cap for the clear cliplite. I used a few dabs of hot glue on the pen cap, just in case.

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This picture emphasizes the "1, 2, 3" knob screw running through the bent portion of the bracket.

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This picture shows exactly why I didn't NEED to tap the hole for the "1, 2, 3" knob screw. The clippard 701 holds it in place lol. Regardless, overkill is best in my case!

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Here, you can see the height of the hat light. If it needs adjusting, I can easily do so. You can also see the ridge somewhat nicely.

Before you criticize my paint job, I started painting one day when it was 78°F outside. NO wind. I started painting and hanged the parts, went inside and applied coats every 15 to 30 minutes. Guess what happened though? The wind started gusting and my paint trapped the junk. I let it dry and decided to do the same 0000 steel wool swirling. The trash in the paint actually gave the thrower a cool, once refurbished looked. SO, I stuck with it! Not all bad instances are...well...bad.

I also need to buy new or trim the screws for the heat sink. I've been lazy with that. That's such a PITA.
alphabeta001 liked this
#4831960
So, I must apologize to Bishop ahead of time. I've been asking him 100,000 questions about how he wired up his pack utilizing the cat5 wires and connectors. For some reason, I just can't grasp it. I mean, I have the basic idea, but I don't think now is a good time to try it. I'm going to do it on my wife's GBII pack though (Yes, I said it. For those keeping up with my on Facebook, you know that we announced it 2 days ago). Her's will have ALL the bells and whistles. Mine is more traditional with the modern nuances. Anyway...

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How the heck am I gonna mount this thing?

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Um...how about on a piece of styrene using 1/4" tall 6-32 tapped nylon stand-offs and screws? Yes please.

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But how am I going to mount it to the body? OH! I have an idea...

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I'm going to use the screws from the side wobble knobs! Yes, the holes have been tapped to accept the 4x40 screws. I also had to trim quite a bit off of the 4x40 screws so they didn't touch the board.
alphabeta001 liked this
#4831963
One last update for the day.

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Added 2" gaffer tape to the neck foam which was mounted horizontally.
Also, last time I put my pack on, I kept swinging my head back intentionally to try to hit the mobo. Yes, I hit it every time. So, I bought some dense crafting foam from the crafting store, cut it to the approximate size, and mounted it with double-sided window tape. It kind of looks like neoprene, so I'm happy with it. This should keep me from splitting my skull next time I look up to Stay Puft.
#4831965
Yeah, I'm gonna have to make a shelf for the vent, too...

Looking awesome, man! And honestly, you don't need to use Cat5 like Bishop did, any kind of wire will work... I'm using regular ribbon cable...
Grimmy GB liked this
#4831981
Man that is s**t!! Send it my way and I'll dispose of it properly.................................. In my cabinet for all to see :P
Grimmy GB liked this
#4832074
Grimmy GB wrote:So, I must apologize to Bishop ahead of time.
No need for that. You're doing a great job.
pyhasanon wrote:And honestly, you don't need to use Cat5 like Bishop did, any kind of wire will work... I'm using regular ribbon cable...
Indisputably correct. There are lots of choices. You whatever method you are most comfortable with. Electrons are indifferent. Just make sure the connections are secure.
Grimmy GB liked this
#4832081
I did this last night. I would recommend that if you are purchasing from a seller on here, to see if they can drill this for you. I don't have a drill press and it would have made this chore quite easier.

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For what it's worth, I drilled the tunnel for the flash LED. I only broke 4 bits doing it LOL!
If you feel confident, here's a brief description of what I did... Started with a 1/16 bit drilling from vertical and slowly working my way to the right angle as the bit dug in. I made a kind of "V" tunnel from both sides. You have to keep in mind that you don't want to drill into ANY of the rotating portions. I ended in a 3/32 bit. I used a round file to get as much crap and sharpness out of the tunnel as possible.
I dyed the solid green wire black and left the white/green stripe as is.



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And to lighten the mood...my Wifey made this for me last night. She, well, she's an amazing woman...and she treats me to these gifts quite often. She made from scratch, creating the pattern as she went. My little Spud :cool:
Smeghead liked this
#4832092
The motherboard padding looks great, and so does the frame padding with tape. Nicely done.

Also, congratulations on getting that tricky "V" tunnel drilled freehand. I finally broke down a bought an old, used drill press off craig's list a couple months ago. Highly recommended if you have the room and resources.

Anyway, keep up the great work, Grimmy... and the knit(?) Slimer is too cute. Love the tongue!
Grimmy GB liked this
#4832093
GohstTarp wrote:The motherboard padding looks great, and so does the frame padding with tape. Nicely done.
Thank you :D
GohstTarp wrote: Also, congratulations on getting that tricky "V" tunnel drilled freehand. I finally broke down a bought an old, used drill press off craig's list a couple months ago. Highly recommended if you have the room and resources.
I'm actually looking into one. I have literally ALL Ryobi corded and cordless tools in my little shop (shed lol) and am actually looking at a table-top press, bench grinder, and belt sander. I could have REALLY used all of those on multiple occasions not just with this build, but other projects. I think my Home Depot credit card will get dusted off soon LOL!
GohstTarp wrote: Anyway, keep up the great work, Grimmy... and the knit(?) Slimer is too cute. Love the tongue!
I definitely will keep up the work. I want to get this thing done and wear it everywhere! My wife crochets EVERTHING! She has an Etsy and Facebook page that displays/sells her works. She's a very talented woman :D
Hoot liked this
#4832106
Great work! I was away for the weekend and couldn't check updates.

I used gaffer tape first too, but I found that the black started to transfer onto my suit as it would rub and leave marks so I changed it out to gorilla tape.
Grimmy GB, Hoot liked this
#4832107
PssdffJay wrote:Great work! I was away for the weekend and couldn't check updates.

I used gaffer tape first too, but I found that the black started to transfer onto my suit as it would rub and leave marks so I changed it out to gorilla tape.
Thanks, Jay! I actually have both to use. Seriously had no idea that gaffers tape rubs off. I might have apply the gorilla tape before I learn that lesson lol. Thanks for that tid bit of info!
Hoot liked this
#4832108
Yeah, it definitely rubs off... but for some reason, it doesn't bother me... LOL
Grimmy GB, Hoot liked this
#4832295
I haven't noticed any black from my gaffer tape. Now I'm afraid to look. I'll probably find a "Kick me!" sign there too.
alphabeta001 liked this
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